A homophobic remark in Hawaii made me think about how I travel

‘Oh hey faggots,’ the white woman says with a smile.

My friend and I are walking along the beachfront, both carrying rainbow flags, on our way to Honolulu Pride.

The hate speech comes as such a surprise that it takes us a moment to register what just happened.

This year, I’ve taken on a project to visit Pride all over the world, and having already waved my flag across 17 destinations, this is the first time I’ve experienced direct discrimination.

It didn’t surprise me that this happened in the US, where there is a growing climate of hatred towards the LGBT+ community, but it did surprise me that it happened in Hawaii.

With its population predominantly comprised of people of Asian, Pacific Islander, or Hawaiian descent, it’s the most ethnically diverse state in the United States. That may not seem relevant, but speaking from experience, I believe that minorities stick together.

You’ll see graffiti here for Stop Asian Hate and Black Trans Lives Matter side by side. When you know what it’s like to be discriminated against, you’re more likely to stand up for other people, too.

In 2023, Hawaii had just one reported hate crime that was motivated by sexual orientation in a population of 1.4 million. To put that into context, New York, another incredibly liberal state, had 1,089 incidents in the same year, from a population of around 19.5 million.

I can’t say for sure that the person who spewed hatred at us was a tourist, but her homophobia on the day of Honolulu Pride speaks to a deeper issue.

Hawaii is being taken over by outsiders, and the native people are struggling to retain their way of life.

This is especially true when it comes to LGBT+ identities. Long before Hawaii was colonised, queer identities were a deeply respected part of Hawaiian culture.

Gender and sexual diversity were recognised through roles like the māhū, people who embodied both masculine and feminine qualities and often served as healers and spiritual guides. Same sex relationships were widely accepted too, known as aikāne, they were free of stigma and seen as an ordinary part of society.

But, as outside influence took over, these identities were pushed out. Much Hawaiian culture was lost, and it’s an issue that continues to affect the islands today.

With less than 20% of the population now of Hawaiian descent, it’s increasingly difficult to preserve the land and keep their traditions alive.

Irresponsible tourism is one of the biggest threats. As the native Hawaiian activist Walter Ritte famously said, ‘It’s like a cancer. [It’s] eating up all of our beaches, all of the places that are profound for our culture.’

The issue has deepened in recent years. A post-Covid tourism boom that put a strain on Hawaii’s resources was further exacerbated by the wildfires that devastated Maui in 2023.

Not only did the fires expose deep inequalities around land ownership, with many natives being displaced, but the firefighters’ emergency response was slowed by water being diverted for golf courses and luxury resorts.

Of course, tourism isn’t all bad. It also contributes up to 25% of the state’s economy, so some suggest the solution lies in regenerative tourism instead.

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‘When we think about tourism, it should be done in a way that allows our future generations to call Hawaii home for a long, long time,’ Kalani Ka’anā’anā, Chief Stewardship Officer at Hawaii Tourism Authority, says.

‘It’s not just about preserving what is left, it’s about remediating, re-enhancing, regenerating what was partially lost or impacted.’

This is something that Honolulu Pride does well.

As we join the parade, the commitment to centring Hawaiian culture shines through. Banners proudly read ‘Aloha for all’ while people march in beautiful traditional Hawaiian attire: flowing pā’u skirts, lei made of fresh island flowers, and adornments expertly crafted from lauhala and ti leaves.

The crowds gasp in awe as a glittering volcano rolls through the streets, sequined lava flowing beneath a glamorous gender non-conforming performer representing Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of fire and volcanoes.

Pele is not only believed to have created the Hawaiian Islands, but she is also a symbol of sovereignty and resilience.

The celebrations continue with hula, chants and traditional music.

Native Hawaiian LGBT+ leaders are also invited to speak and perform, with various workshops and panels exploring the intersections of queer identity and Hawaiian heritage.

Proceeds from Honolulu Pride also support local nonprofits that preserve culture and support Native LGBT+ youth. All of this is captured in this year’s theme of ‘Ho’oamau’ – a Hawaiian word meaning to preserve and persist.

Beyond the Pride festival, passionate people are working to keep Hawaiian culture alive.

During my visit, I stay at the Kaimana Beach Hotel, which is run by a queer Hawaiian native and one of the only hotels on the island that is locally owned.

Checking into my room, I find a copy of Lei, a Hawaiian-owned LGBT+ magazine waiting on the coffee table, along with snacks and drinks from Hawaiian-owned businesses.

Local businesses also operate out of the hotel. There are yoga and lei-making classes, but my favourite activity was trying pākākā nalu (outrigger canoe surfing) with Kapua Wa’a Experiences.

Founded by Kekoa Kekumano, their mission is to honour the rich cultural traditions of Hawaii while also celebrating the legacy of their ancestors.

What began as a way for fisherman to return home with their catch safely, slowly evolved into a sport. Today, it’s a dying art form only kept alive by a small number of passionate natives.

As we row through the crystal clear waters, I’m impressed by their knowledge and respect for the ocean.

The experience isn’t just about the thrill of the sport either – they also teach us about the land, the water, and Hawaiian culture. I learn the native word for sea turtles – honu – as we watch them bobbing up and down in the glistening surf, and we learn the native names for different parts of the island, too.

It’s a small gesture, but it matters.

I leave Honolulu Pride feeling inspired, but also questioning my own footprint as a frequent traveller.

Can I do more to travel responsibly, to give back to the communities I come in contact with, and to minimise any damage I might cause?

None of us is perfect, but the people of Hawaii are a reminder that regardless of where we travel, we can all do a little more to be better.

And for that, we should all be grateful.

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