In Bidiyah, time pauses and silence endures
Muscat – There is a certain mystery about the desert dunes. While the ocean screams with thunderous waves and mountains whisper through restless forests, the desert chooses restraint. It stands poised, almost alone, guarding secrets beneath layers of glowing silica and unforgiving heat.
One never truly understands the temperament of the dunes, which change with every passing ray of sunlight. And somewhere amid this eerie stillness, one cannot help but recall the anguish of Qays (Majnu) wandering endlessly in search of his beloved Laila.
Such random emotions rise uninvited in the sands of Bidiyah. About a three-hour drive from Muscat, the desert appears to suspend time. The golden dunes unfold in soft yet intimidating contours—at once welcoming and threatening. Occasionally, an unknown insect wriggles into the sand, disappearing into an unseen kingdom below, reminding us mortals that there is rizq (sustenance) for everyone in the planet.
As one approaches Bidiyah, the suspense gradually gives way to off-road paths leading into the heart of the desert. Not long ago, a sturdy SUV was essential to navigate this terrain. Today, improved roads allow even sedans to glide through comfortably at speed.
Along the way, one notices azbaas – traditional Bedouin tents – often before reaching the larger desert camps located five to six kilometres deeper. Once simple shelters, many Azbaas have evolved into modest yet functional spaces with beds and washrooms. For travellers seeking an unfiltered taste of desert life, these offer an intense experience – free of restaurants, Wi-Fi, soft beds and polished comforts. Their greatest advantage lies in flexibility: owners can set them up in chosen spots across the dunes, though guests must bring their own mattresses and cooking utensils. These are normally seasonal (October to March) and approved by the government.
As twilight settles, the desert becomes a living canvas. Couples sit quietly, watching the sun dissolve into shades of orange and gold. Some lie alone on the warm sand, nursing heartbreak beneath a sky preparing its nightly spectacle. Fathers challenge their sons to conquer the dunes while octogenarian couples walk hand in hand, communicating through silence. Their decades of loyalty find a quiet witness in the wild openness around them.
Bidiyah’s camps draw visitors from across the globe – Italy, Germany and Poland – and more recently from India and China. Sandboarding, dune bashing, bonfires and camel rides echo with laughter in many languages. Hilal al Ghadani, Managing Director of Desert Flower Tourism, said, “There is huge potential in the Indian and Chinese markets, along with Europe. Since COVID-19, Omanis have also begun exploring the interiors of the country – especially deserts and mountains. Recently, we hosted nearly 300 Omanis for two nights. Young and old, families, corporates, bachelors – everyone wants to experience the desert.”
Hilal also welcomes the rise of Azbaas, calling them essential for a competitive tourism market and more immersive exploration of Oman. “Europeans love such authentic experiences, just like locals,” he added.
Among the many camps scattered across the sands are Salam Camp and Al Safari Camp. Arshad Ullah, the General Manager of both the camps, said, “We have tried to keep the camp close to nature – with minimal lights and sound. When guests enter, they should feel both safe and welcomed. With over 60 rooms of various types, the camps offer camel rides, dune bashing, stargazing, bonfires, and even DJs and traditional music. Improved roads now allow guests to drive directly to the camps, just a few kilometres from the main route.”
At nearly every camp, local Bedouin women display handmade crafts – bangles, bracelets and kohl. Salma, one such artisan, explained, “We make kohl using fish and a special mineral. It enhances beauty and is also good for the eyes.”
Adil al Abduwani, an Omani visitor, shared why he keeps returning with family and friends. One thing I admire is the absence of quad bikes,” he said. “I’m not against them, but their noise breaks the peace of the desert.”
As night descends, tranquility blankets the dunes. Dim camp lights flicker in the distance, and the aroma of barbecue drifts through the cool air. Turning away from the camps, one confronts an endless expanse of shinning silica beneath a sky ablaze with glittering constellations. Looking up, the darkness only deepens the glow – like a bride draped in a veil of diamonds. For a moment, forgotten star names return, once narrated by a father long ago. Life’s chaos – ambition, responsibility, city lights and FOMO – had long stolen these stars from memory.
As a cool, sandy breeze brushed my cheeks, it became clear: the only way to unravel the desert’s mystery is to fall silent – and become part of its mystery.
