Everything I ate in a weekend of exploring Barbados and its breathtaking food

Few islands do the Caribbean dream quite like Barbados.

But while it is justifiably famed for its showstopping beaches and bright turquoise bays, I travelled to the ‘land of the flying fish’ for something different: to indulge in its sumptuous, decadent, and world-class food.

Barbados is known as the culinary capital of the Caribbean, with hundreds of restaurants serving everything from pickled pork to cou-cou and fried flying fish with spicy gravy, the moreish national dish.

The culinary scene is influenced by a melting pot of cultures, resulting in a brilliant combination of the best ingredients from Africa, India and even the UK.

‘Barbados cuisine is everything the Caribbean has to offer but better, enhancing what already exists and putting a twist on it,’ says chef Trevon Stoute.

I am a lifelong food lover (and now food writer), and when I visited Barbados as a teenager with my mum and sister, I fell head over heels for its unique flavours.

I devoured Bajan fish cakes, perfectly spiced macaroni pie (not to be confused with the milder mac and cheese) and flaky flying fish.

And so when I was invited to return and reacquaint my taste buds at the island’s renowned Food and Rum Festival, I didn’t think twice. I was ready to consume as much as my stomach could handle.

From fine dining at Uva to local eats and street food at the OG hangout spot, Oistins Fish Fry at Oistins Bay Gardens, I can confirm that Barbados and its kitchens truly have it all.

The best place to eat in Barbados

Naturally, as part of the island’s national dish, you’ll find flying fish on almost every food stall and restaurant menu in Barbados.

But the best place to try it is Oistin’s Fish Fry, the legendary fish market.

Flying fish is typically seasoned with spices and scotch bonnet pepper, then deep-fried to create a crisp, outer layer.

I smell punchy garlic and onion as I wait. I am hungry, but that’s almost forgotten as I hear the sound of soca (an offshoot of the Caribbean’s soulful calypso music), laughter and excited chatter. There are families, couples, groups of friends, and I’m told this is one of the island’s most popular local hangouts.

It is love at first bite: two pieces of perfectly flaky fish, with melt-in-the-mouth texture, topped off with Bajan spices. The container is stuffed to bursting with a dreamy assortment of macaroni pie, just-ripe plantain and a fresh salad. A huge portion that can definitely be shared between two will set you back around $30BDD (£11). 

You can swap the flying fish for tuna, swordfish, marlin, and mahi-mahi. It’s a dream for seafood fans like me, at a fraction of the price you’d pay in London.

Book a table in advance and once you sit down, don’t move – Oistin’s Fish Fry gets seriously packed, but the atmosphere is electric. 

Trying Rihanna’s favourite fast food spot 

Barbados is known for its fresh seafood, fruit and vegetables, but don’t sleep on its fast food.

Specifically, the Bajan answer to McDonald’s (and Rihanna’s favourite treat), Chefette. The proud Bajan superstar has long expressed her love of Chefette and is often spotted there when she’s back home.

Serving pizza, fried chicken, roti, and burgers, not to mention lots of ice cream, there’s something for everyone.

Like any other fast-food establishment, it’s not fancy, but it’s tasty and fun, and I can see why Rihanna loves it.

One chicken and potato roti set me back $10.95BBD, and I ordered one piece of chicken on the side (another $8.25BBD).

The chicken had the perfect crunch, but it was a little on the salty side. 

Learn about rum

You can’t go to Barbados without drinking its rum and learning a little about its history.

The island is home to the world’s oldest rum distillery and rum brand, Mount Gay. 

Though the origins of rum date back hundreds of years (there are records of production in Brazil in the 1620s), Barbados is credited for its birth.

Made from fermented sugar, it was first known as ‘kill devil’, a Bajan term from the 17th-century.

With its unique coral limestone soil, pure water and high-quality sugarcane, Barbados has ideal conditions for distilling (aided by its tropical climate).

But there is a dark side to the history of rum.

Across the Americas, sugarcane plantations were mostly worked by enslaved Black Africans and their descendants. Harvesting and processing raw sugar cane in the blazing heat was often fatal.

The reality of rum production only changed with the abolition of slavery.

To get a sense of this colonial history and a taste of the best rum Barbados brews today, a rum tour, like the one run by #1 Bajan Bus, is just the ticket.

We are led by local guide Chester, who takes us to several spots, including the relaxed and colourful Kermitt’s Bar.

During the day, it’s a laid-back spot to sit and sip on rum; by night, it comes alive with music, plus karaoke every Tuesday from 5pm until 1am.

Rum shops in Barbados are staples, and Chester tells us they’re more like convenience stores or ‘corner shops’ as we call them in the UK. They sell alcohol, but also fruit, vegetables and other essentials.

If you want to drink like a local, the only choice is Old Brigand rum, made by Foursquare distillery by Richard Seale.

It’s a staple on the island and is known as One Eyed Man, due to the pirate on the bottle. Of course, Mount Gay is also popular with locals (and tourists) – I bring a bottle back.

Another favourite is Bajan rum punch, a refreshing blend of tropical juices, rum, sugar syrup, lime (and often spices). It’s almost everywhere you go and is the perfect cooler for the 30°C heat.

A 4am rave

I knew I had to experience Rise and Rum, an all-inclusive breakfast beach party that celebrates rum, music and pure island life.

Given it starts at 4am, it feels strange to be sipping on rum.

But believe me, as soon as you hear the music blaring, you’ll forget what time it is. 

Our guide Melissa tells us that the ‘real’ party doesn’t get started until about 7am, anyway. 

Soca, calypso, and dancehall blare through the speakers at Copacabana Beach Club on Bay Street. I try Barbados-style hot chocolate, piping hot with a kick from the rum, alongside some coconut bread and sweet bread made by chef Ann-Marie Leach.

A standout is the Barracuda Fishcake Sandwich in a soft white roll with citrus mango pepper sauce. 

Rain and clouds try to put a downer on the morning, but the party doesn’t stop.

Should you want to enjoy a sit down meal, try Zemi cafe in Bathsheba on Barbados’ East Coast.

They’re known for their crispy, golden fry cakes. But while you’re here, order their Rum Glazed Pork Belly with a sweet potato mash, sweet pineapple chutney and jus.

Now I just need to find an investor to launch a new Bajan restaurant in London.

Lola Alao was a guest of Barbados Tourism, but don’t expect us to sugarcoat anything – our reviews are 100% independent.

Comments Add as preferred source